REMINISCENCE - a story about how we connect to our root, our culture through the tangible or intangible things that we create.
Tradition metamorphosis, two comparatively opposing words can merge and intertwine beautifully into one perfect combination.
We start with a physical matter - THE MATERIALS
Being one of the representative image of Vietnamese culture, mulberry silk is used by many designers and creators in their works, the most popular image is the silk Ao Dai (a traditional vietnamese garment).
During our process of learning and using this material for the collection, we have got a chance to understand more about the nature of silkworm, how magical this little creation's life is, and found that there is another kind of silk, the hand-weaved linen silk, which created by weaver Phan Thi Thuan from My Duc, Vietnam, she uses a different technique to weave the fibers, with the purpose of not harming the silkworms and put all the “broken” cocoon in use.
Hand-weaved linen silk and mulberry silk, they have completely different textures, one is the calluses inside the palm of a hand, other is the chilling sensation of water streaming slowly on the skin. Surprisingly, hand-weaved linen silk is weaved from a so-called “broken” cocoon, those that the larvae have turned into moths, break the cocoon and fly free. The thread is weak and need to be weave into other thread in order to maintain a continuous line, therefore, instead of using a weaving machine, the artisan weaved by hand, there go the name “hand-weaved linen silk”, made by hand, the silk is uneven, “slub” appears make the surface raft and lumpy. Though incomparable to regular mulberry silk with its smoothness, the uncanny nature of hand-weaved linen silk makes it so rare and unique.
The contrast appearances of these materials show how the external factors can deeply affect the development and the evolution of any living to non-living thing. The New would cease to exist without its precedent Old, the Old was once fresh and new.
Old and New are relative and subjective, but they can only exist in each other’s retrospective, they are not rivals. Tradition metamorphosis exists because of their duality.
THE AESTHETICS & CONNECTIONS
Tradition metamorphosis
As a “mother and daughter” collaboration, collection REMINISCENE tells the story of the visible and invisible ties between generations. Old ideas develop and transform alongside new ones in the consciousness of every family member, the invisible red strings of consciousness that translate into visible traditions and habits that run in each Hanoian family.
Trench coat "DÉJÀ VU"
Quilted jacket "EYE IN THE DREAM"
Each distinct symbols, colors and patterns are inspired by Han’s fond memories from her childhood and her home town. The colourful glass windows, the hustling bustling sidewalk food vendor, the goldfish in the dangling nylon bag, cloud’s reflexion on the lake or in the sweet innocent eyes of a child, faintly fresh scent of mother’s newly picked lotus, grandmother’s gray silk hair, or that moss-covered balcony under the guava tree’s canopy, ... These characteristics are reflected in embroidery motifs such as the interlocking silhouettes and piercing eyes that seem to look deep inside the heart, ...
Seeing the comeback of the signature “deconstructing” traditional garments, we can see the images of vietnamese traditional garments appear hidden in the flowy and unisex silhouette of the CLONE HUE shirt dress, the YEM DAO dress or the quilted coat EYE IN THE DREAM or quilted jacket HEART....
Quilted Jacket "HEART"
Though the front is quite monotone, a real spectacle is going on in the back, meticulous hand embroidery patterns: colourful tassels, beads stitching, organza interlocking patterns, weaving lines that replicate traditional Vietnamese knitting baskets, gamme’s logo through layers of brocade fabrics and organza's silk on the background of hand-weaved linen silk,....
Responsible and sustainable production and consumption
In addition to standard embroidery, quilting and running stitches, the two designers also employ techniques that allow the recycling and reuse of a significant amount of rags and excess fabric created over the brand’s long history, exemplifying responsible and sustainable concepts.
The process of recycling and reusing waste fabrics
The silk that walks in REMINISCENCE is a true Made in Vietnam craft product, the special technique used allow the artisans to weave the silk out of the silk larvae without harming it. All the embroideries are traditional handmade, with a high-skilled craftsmanship and a strong legacy that no industrial machine can replicate. Complex, time-consuming and low in stock, the final product that touch the client’s hand is more than just a garment, it’s a true work of art, an art that honores those who wear and those who made it.
Traditional craftsmanship is not something that gammeCOLLECTIVE come back and forth to and call it a collection, or a way to put forth to glorify its modern aspect, it has been the base, the essence, and the forever mission to bring the beauty and value of traditional craftsmanship internationally, the “old” is not irrelevant, we found the eternal beauty in our own roots and origins, we put in our own interpretations and stories, and that is the brand’s motto of unique personal identity.
"Because culture and human development are actively related."
Authors and editors: Luong Nguyet Khanh and Kha Han Nguyen
Source photos: gammeCOLLECTIVE's photo stock